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October 11, 2007 Wabasha Visit

On October 11, nineteen lucky members of the Western Wisconsin Indianhead chapter of ASG went to Wabasha, MN. Our chapter Education & Program chairs, Sharon Bergstad and Barb Hogue, had arranged a special day for us. We began our day with a special lunch at the Anderson House, where we had our choice from the incredible dessert menu. Wabasha is the oldest town in Minnesota, and the Anderson House is the state's oldest B&B. While we didn't stay the night, thereby missing the opportunity to have a bed-warming cat sent to our room (really!), we did enjoy touring the establishment, seeing the kitties in their special room, and appreciating the individually decorated rooms. Most featured quilts and antique furniture. And yes, guests may request that one of the five resident cats spend the night with them.

We had a bit of time on this sunny fall day to explore this old town on the Mississippi River. One of our members discovered that the library's children's room features Book Week posters dating back to the mid-1960's. We also checked out several of the town's numerous antique stores. All I will say is that purchases were made!

The highlight of the day though was a special showing of antique kimono at Wind Whisper West, a one-of-a-kind shop specializing in vintage wedding kimono. We broke one shop rule immediately upon entering! Being “fabric people” we were drawn to feel the exquisite silk garments but the proprietor's quick “Ahem!” and pointing to the “No Touching Please” sign convinced us to mend our ways. The owner, Richard Fuller, is an ex-Marine who was stationed in Japan in the 1950's. Since that time, he has collected kimonos, especially the extravagant, heavily embroidered wedding kimono. He explained to us that the 1,500 year tradition of wedding kimono is coming to an end, as many Japanese brides now prefer western styled wedding gowns over the traditional attire. It was hard for us to imagine that preference as we oohed and ahhed as each gorgeous garment was brought out. But of course, for us, it's just a piece of clothing and is not freighted with the centuries of tradition. It originally came from China around 800 A.D. and the Japanese then modified it to their own liking.

The antique wedding kimono in his shop have been made from a single strip of silk, 14.2 inches wide and 12.5 yards long. The silk, originally white, is then dyed, painted, and bleached, often many times over, to obtain the desired background. Then the embroiderers go to work. Typically, they can do about an inch per day! This may explain the high cost and the fact that no two kimono are the same. Every symbol on the kimono means something: cranes symbolize good luck, long life, fidelity, peace and happiness and are a very popular wedding kimono motif. Turtles also symbolize long life and pine trees appear frequently. Mr. Fuller pointed out that all of the gold seen on these antique kimono is real. Most of them are red inside, another symbol of luck. Purple was traditionally only used by royalty, as in the West. Royalty also used a white lining as being royal they had no need to fight off evil spirits which was one of the meanings of other colors. He also informed us that wedding kimono do not require an obi, the highly decorated sash around the waist.

A wedding kimono is distinguished by a thick roll of binding at the hem. This allows the kimono to be spread out and admired by the wedding guests. At the formal wedding reception, the bride may be wearing approximately 22 pounds of clothing and accessories. She is expected to stand without moving for 3 hours at this reception! (If this doesn't make us grateful for the Chicken Dance, I don't know what will.) Mr. Fuller explained that the wedding kimono is considered as a manifestation of wealth and during those 3 hours it will be examined closely by the guests. In the past, these garments were twelve layers. Originally only nobility wore kimono and their castles could be cold so the layers served a practical function. Eventually, however, the layers came to mean rank and wealth. Some of the kimono that we saw displayed multiple layers.

After Commodore Perry opened Japan in the mid-1800's, western dress became increasingly popular. But later, during the Taisho period, (1912-1926), the new Empress let it be known that one needn't bother to come to court wearing anything but a kimono! The Empress was particularly fond of painted kimono, so their popularity increased. Kyoto was not bombed during WWII and many kimono from earlier periods survived. Most of the kimono that Fuller owns were made there.

While the entire visit was enlightening, I think the most exciting time was when we were allowed to try on two of these gorgeous kimono. We experienced first-hand the need to have a dresser, as it would be quite difficult to put the garment on by yourself. Mr. Fuller's daughter, in addition to being his associate, also performed this function for us. After several of us tried on the exquisite robes, and felt just a bit more regal while doing so, we browsed the other offerings at the shop. Plainer kimono were for sale, as were obis, bolts of painted kimono silk, and haori – the hip-length kimono jacket. These were originally men-only, but now are commonly worn by both men and women. They are quite flattering and have the lovely advantage of being considerably more affordable than the wedding kimono.

It's well worth a trip to Wabasha just to go to the kimono gallery/shop. While you're there, however, do as we did and also visit the National Eagle Center. You won't even have to move your car, as everything within Wabasha's center district is within walking distance. While at the Eagle Center, you can get up close and personal with our national symbol, the Bald Eagle. We attended a fact-filled presentation about the eagles and even got to see one of them eat an afternoon snack. Eagles are carnivores and have such strong digestive systems that even the bones of their prey are dissolved. We learned that a lead pellet smaller than a pea will kill an eagle within days. Clean out your fishing tackle boxes, please! Eagles congregate in and around Wabasha in the winter, as open water freezes over up north. The river currents are strong in this area, due to the flow coming out of Lake Pepin, so the water is generally open year-round. If you come to the Center in February or March you may see upwards of 600 eagles in the area. Even though it's not unusual to see these magnificent birds here in western Wisconsin, I think many of us made a resolution to return to Wabasha!

Six Photos from the trip:
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